Dark beer adds flavor to a Ukrainian pork classic when kvass is hard to find

Traditionally, Ukrainians used kvass (a low-alcohol fermented drink) for cooking. For example, when making vereshchaka — a pork stew — the pork is braised in beet-based or bread-based kvass.

Since finding kvass outside of Ukraine can be a little challenging (and making your own takes some time), I suggest replacing beet or bread kvass with beer when making this Beer-Braised Roast Pork recipe from my cookbook, “The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen.”

By the way, cooking meat in beer is quite popular in several European countries. The flavor of meat cooked in beer rather than kvass will be slightly different — you won’t get the distinct beet or bread flavor — but overall, it’ll be similar to the traditional recipe.

For this version, I recommend using only dark beer. The darker the beer, the better it’ll taste.

Serves 4 to 6

Start to finish: 2 hours 30 minutes

2 to 2 ½ pounds pork shoulder

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 small head garlic, cloves separated and peeled

2 to 3 tablespoons sunflower oil (or other neutral oil)

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3 cups dark beer or kvass

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened to room temperature

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon breadcrumbs

2 to 3 sprigs parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 375 F.

2. Cut the pork shoulder into bite-size chunks, transfer to a large bowl, and season generously with salt and black pepper. Finely mince the garlic cloves and toss them with the meat chunks.

3. Heat the sunflower oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and sear the meat chunks until brown on all sides. Work in batches and do not overcrowd the pan or the meat might not get a good crust. Transfer the fried meat pieces to an ovenproof dish. Sprinkle the dried oregano over the meat and pour about three-quarters of the beer into the dish.

4. Place the meat in the preheated oven and bake for 1 ½ to 2 hours. While the meat is baking, make the sauce: Deglaze the frying pan with the remaining beer and let most of the liquid cook off. Make a butter slurry (it will help thicken the sauce) by combining the softened butter and the flour until a dough-like substance forms and then stir it into the reduced beer mixture. Let the sauce cook for a few more minutes over low heat, stirring constantly, and set aside.

5. Let the baked meat cool a little. Divide it among several large plates, drizzle with a generous helping of the sauce, and sprinkle the bread crumbs on top. Garnish each plate with a little fresh parsley and serve immediately.

Yevhen Klopotenko is a Ukrainian chef, restaurateur, author of "The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen" and social activist. On his cooking website, klopotenko.com , he promotes authentic Ukrainian cuisine.

Excerpted from “The Authentic Ukrainian Kitchen,” by Yevhen Klopotenko. Copyright (copyright) 2024 by Yevhen Klopotenko. Used with permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Co., New York, NY. All rights reserved.