A simple no-cook tomato sauce for peak summer heat, from Meryl Feinstein

When tomatoes are at their peak — and it’s too hot to turn on the oven — this simple, no-cook sauce from my cookbook “Pasta Every Day” is what I come back to time and again. It’s often called pomodoro crudo and served with very thin spaghetti, though you’ll find many variations, including those with onions, capers, olives and local cheese.

In that spirit, don’t hesitate to make this your own.

You can use any flavorful tomato here, from heirloom to plum to cherry. Remove the skins and seeds of the larger varieties if you’d like, or keep it rustic and leave them intact (I prefer the latter). The pasta will soak up the garlicky tomato juices over time, meaning it makes for great (dare I say better?) leftovers and picnic fare.

Serves 4 (enough for about 22 ounces of fresh pasta or 16 ounces of dried pasta)

2¼ pounds ripe, small tomatoes

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ loosely packed cups fresh basil leaves, roughly torn, plus more for serving

Kosher salt

1/3 to 1/2 cup high quality extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)

Halve or quarter the tomatoes and combine with the garlic and basil in a large serving bowl. Season generously with salt, then drizzle in the oil. Stir to combine. Leave the sauce to sit, covered, for at least 1 hour, ideally in a warm, sunny place.

Cook your pasta of choice to your liking — this is not a time for undercooking and finishing in the sauce. Add the pasta to the sauce and stir to combine. Finish with another drizzle of oil, more basil and a shower of cheese if you’d like. If you can bear it, let the pasta marinate in the sauce for 15 minutes before serving.

If using larger tomatoes, I often peel and seed them before chopping. To do so, bring a pot of water to a boil and fill a large bowl with ice water. With a paring knife, score the bottoms of the tomatoes with a small X, just piercing the skin. Drop them into the water and cook until the skin near the X starts to loosen, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the ice bath. When the tomatoes are cool, peel away the skins. Remove the pulp and seeds and roughly chop the flesh.

Meryl Feinstein is a chef, pasta maker and food writer. She founded Pasta Social Club and lives in Washington, D.C., where she teaches pasta-making workshops. She was the Resident Pasta Maker on the online site Food52.

Excerpted from “Pasta Every Day” by Meryl Feinstein. Copyright (copyright) 2023 by Meryl Feinstein. Used with permission of Voracious, an imprint of Little, Brown and Company. New York, NY. All rights reserved.